Broccolini with Crispy Poached Egg from Metrovino
Unfortunately, the tip sheet won’t be updated until this summer. But as throngs of celebrity chefs, food geeks, and other culinary professionals descend on Portland, here’s my offering as how to organize caloric intake. All of the primary recommendations are less than 10 minutes by taxi from downtown, many within walking distance of conference sites and downtown hotels.
DINNER
Foie Terrine from Le Pigeon
Metrovino: As if 60 wines by the glass or by the taste isn’t enough reason to visit, there are the fabulous starters like the Ken’s Artisan bread served with grilled leeks in olive oil, the ever-changing house-made charcuterie, and the grilled broccolini with crispy poached egg and anchovy brown butter. 1139 NW 11th Ave, 503.517.7778, metrovinopdx.com. Open every night. Reservations recommended. Entrees under $30.
Toro Bravo: Serving more chef-driven than tradition-driven Spanish tapas, Toro Bravo is probably the favorite restaurant among 90% of local food lovers. At only $25 per person, the tasting menu is your best bet, though supplementing it with marinated sheep’s cheese in rose petal harissa won’t leave you over-stuffed. 120 NE Russell St, 503.261.4464, torobravopdx.com. Open every night. No reservations under most circumstances, though waits can be long. Larger plates under $20.
Working the Oven at Wildwood
Wildwood: One the restaurants that led Portland into the new Millenium with (still) one of the most persistent and successful commitments to local, seasonal ingredients. Menu changes often, so focus on what accompanies the main ingredient. Look for things like nettles, rhubarb, rapini, arugula and other greens this time of year. Order dessert. 1331 NW 21st Ave, 503.248.9663, wildwoodrestaurant.com. Dinner every night. No lunch Sunday. Reservations recommended. Entrees under $30.
For Hardcore Food Geeks
Apizza Scholls: The pizzeria that started the hot oven revolution in Portland — and they still haven’t been surpassed. As good as anywhere in the country. The ‘margo’rita is near perfect and the bacon bianca, a white pie with with house-cured bacon is only improved on when littlneck clams are available for the Clams Casino. 4741 SE Hawthorne Blvd, 503.233.1286, apizzascholls.com. Dinner every night. No reservations. 18″ pizzas under $25.
Hamachi at Tanuki
Podnah’s: The only brisket that’s better is found in Lockhart, Texas. But the sides, ribs, pulled pork, and sauce are better here. (They also have one of the best breakfasts in Portland.) 1469 NE Prescott St, 503.281.3700, podnahspit.com. Open lunch and dinner, but closed Monday. Breakfast weekends. Will be closed through April 22nd. No reservations. Entrees under $17.
Tanuki: The bold flavors of Korean food with Japanese attention to detail at this Okinawa-inspired dive-izakaya from a Charlie Trotter-trained chef. Menu changes too often, so just ask for the omakase and offer $25 per person and you’ll leave stuffed. 413 NW 21st Ave, 503.241.7667, tanukipdx.com. No reservations. Open for dinner Tuesday through Saturday. Larger plates under $12.
LUNCH
Bunk: Sandwiches that fuse messy, soulful style with top-notch ingredients for a discriminating, iPhone-wielding hipster class. Try the pork belly cuban, grinder with mama lil peppers, or meatball hero. 621 SE Morrison St, 503.477.9515, bunksandwiches.com. Open breakfast and lunch Monday through Saturday. No reservations. Sandwiches under $9.
Nostrana: Fantastic wood oven pizzas and rustic Italian cooking make this a worthwhile destination for lunch or dinner. The margherita with arugula and prosciutto added or the diavola with sausage, house-made mozzarella, and mama lil peppers make for a lunch any dinner will have to work hard to live up to. 1401 SE Morrison St, 503.234.2427, nostrana.com. Lunch Monday through Friday. Dinner every night. Reservations unnecessary for lunch. 12″ pizza and lunch plates under $16.
Charcuterie from Olympic Provisions
Pok Pok: No pad thai. No rainbow of curries. Just traditional northern Thai dishes made with quality ingredients. Khanom jiin, boat noodles, roast game hen, and khao man som tum will transport you to the land of smiles (without the political upheaval). 3226 SE Division St, 503.232.1287, pokpokpdx.com. Open for lunch Monday through Friday and dinner every night. Limited reservations. Lunch items under $13.
Taste of Jakarta: Authentic Javanese street food indoors from two of the nicest restaurant owners in Portland. Try the ayam goreng, chicken stewed in curry and then fried crisp, beef rendang, or either of the jackfruit curries. 1239 SW Jefferson St, 503.222.5136, tasteofjakarta.com. Open Monday through Saturday for lunch and dinner. No reservations. Entrees under $8.
For Hardcore Food Geeks
Nong's Khao Man Gai, Home of Chicken Rice
Ngoc Han Bun Bo Hue: One of three Portland specialists in the spicy pork soup of central Vietnam. Beyond the bun bo hue, soups such as the bun nuoc leo with crispy pork are quite good, as are noodle bowls, such as the bun thit nuong. 8230 SE Harrison St #315, 503.774.2761. Open daily for lunch and dinner. No reservations. Most items under $10.
Nong’s Khao Man Gai: A one-dish wonder, this cart serves only the fabled Hainanese chicken rice Thai-style and does it well. SW 10th & Alder, 971.255.3480, khaomangai.com. Open for lunch Monday through Saturday. Prices under $10.
BREAKFAST
Kenny & Zuke’s Delicatessen: Yeah, I’m Zuke, so take this recommendation with a grain of salt, but if you want to visit us, breakfast is a good bet for avoiding a wait and still getting to taste the house-made pastrami and bagels. 1038 SW Stark St, 503.222.3354, kennyandzukes.com. Open every day for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Limited reservations. Items under $16.
Mother’s Bistro: Midscale American comfort foods that are better than what your mom made. 212 SW Stark St, 503.464.1122, mothersbistro.com. Open Tuesday through Sunday for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Reservations recommended. Items under $15.
Pambiche: Tiny Cuban restaurant with delicious tropical desserts, which translates into delicious breakfast pastries to go with the egg dishes, beans, and plantains. Open every day for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. No reservations. Items under $13.
Spella Caffe: If you just want a cup of coffee or a cappucino, this truly micro micro-roaster with two downtown locations, one a cart, should be your first choice. SW 9th & Alder St, 503.752.0428; 520 SW 5th, 503.752.0264, spellacaffe.com. Open Monday through Friday morning through afternoon.
Tasty n Sons: Only spot on the list I haven’t been yet, but given their pedigree (sister-restaurant to Toro Bravo) and the reports of those I trust, this has to be among a breakfast-lover’s destinations. 3808 N. Williams #C, 503.621.1400, tastynsons.com. Open daily for breakfast and lunch. No reservations. Items $10 and under.
For Hardcore Food Geeks
Autentica: Chilaquiles, menudo, huevo con chorizo and other very authentic Mexican breakfasts done with the care and quality ingredients of an upscale restaurant. 5507 NE 30th Ave, 503.287.7555, autenticaportland.com. Open for breakfast Saturday & Sunday. Open for dinner Tuesday through Sunday. Items under $13.
HA&VL: A different Vietnamese soup for breakfast each day. Get there early because by lunch they sell out. They’re that good. 2738 SE 82nd Ave, 503.772.0103. Open Tuesday through Sunday for breakfast and lunch. Items under $10.
Pine State Biscuits: Biscuits with gravy, biscuits with egg, biscuits with fried chicken, bacon, cheese, gravy, and egg. Yeah, seriously. 3640 SE Belmont St, 503.236.3346, pinestatebiscuits.com. Open every day for breakfast and lunch. Also available at the downtown Portland Farmers Market on Saturdays. Items under $8.
Drinking Chocolate at Sahagun
SNACKS & TREATS
Alma Chocolates: One of Portland’s several world-class chocolatiers, their forte is interesting flavor combinations like their Thai peanut butter cup and their ginger-almond toffee. 140 NE 28th Ave, 503.517.0262, almachocolate.com.
Cacao: Excellent drinking chocolates a large collection of only the very best chocolate bars. They also sell several pieces from several local chocolatiers, including Xocolatl de David and Cocanu, which shouldn’t be missed. 414 SW 13th Ave, 503.241.0656, cacaodrinkchocolate.com. Second, more-limited, location in The Heathman Hotel.
Pyro Pizza's Food Cart Wood Oven
Cartopoia: Portland’s best food cart pod, a hipster party spot (and sobering up spot) into the wee hours, especially on the weekends. Each cart is very good at what they do, especially Potato Champion for Belgian-style frites and poutine, Whiffies for empanada-style fried sweet and savory pies, Perriera for crepes, and Pyro Pizza for wood-oven pizza (from a cart!). SE 12th & Hawthorne Blvd.
Cheese Bar: If you’ve read about Steve’s Cheese, this is where Steve has moved, bringing his carefully selected cheeses, many from the Northwest, with him. Don’t miss cheeses from Black Sheep, La Estrella, and Ancient Heritage. 6031 SE Belmont Ave, 503.222.6014, cheese-bar.com.
City Market NW: Small co-op with one of Portland’s best sources of meat and charcuterie, Chop, one of Portland’s best sources of fish, Newman’s, and one of Portland’s best sources of salumi, cheese, produce, and other gourmet foods, Pastaworks. 735 NW 21st Ave, 503.221.3007.
Cheese Bar's Cheese Case
Ken’s Artisan Bakery: Hearty, sourdough breads, some of Portland’s best croissants, and French pastries to satisfy the sweet tooth. 338 NW 21st Ave, 503.248.2202, kensartisan.com.
Little T American Baker: Award-winning baker, Tim Healea, finally opened his own place where everything from cookies to pretzel bread to baguettes are made with the same love and skill. 2600 SE Division St, 503.228.3458, littletbaker.com.
Pearl Bakery: Portland’s original artisan bakery and best source for rustic Italian loaves. 102 NW 9th Ave, 503.827.0910, pearlbakery.com
Pix Patisserie: Classic ornate French pastries with an irreverent twist and clever ice cream flavor combinations. Pretty good chocolates, too. And they’re open late and serve alcohol. 3901 N Williams Ave, 503.282.6539; 3402 SE Division St, 503.232.4407, pixpatisserie.com.
Portland Farmers Market: One of the best farmers markets in the country. Missing it would be a huge mistake, even with the limited offerings this time of year. Make sure to see my report on opening day, too. SW Hall & SW Montgomery, portlandfarmersmarket.org.
Sahagun Chocolates: Excellent hot chocolate (made with a different high-end chocolate each month) and possibly Portland’s best truffles (in a town with a lot of good chocolatiers). 10 NW 16th Ave, 503.274.7065, sahagunchocolates.com.
Major disagreement on the best pizza. Ken’s Artisan Pizza beats Apizza Scholls on every level. The pizza: Ken’s has better dough and sauce and not as cheesy. Apps: Ken’s offers tasty seasonal veg and protein plates. Scholls nothing. Interior: Scholls is like a gutted out dentist office. Ken’s has high ceiling with huge old rafters and beautiful wood fired oven. Service: both places have been good. I think Scholls has good pizza but just not as good as Ken’s and Ken’s is a way better overall experience.
Thanks for the comment, Futuretense. I like Ken’s a lot as well. It’s so great to finally have so many wonderful pizza options in Portland. When I first came here over a decade ago, it was all pretty mediocre. Now with places like Scholls, Ken’s, Nostrana, Al Forno, Firehouse, Wy’East, and several others, I can get really good pizza in any part of town.
I think Ken’s and Scholls are a little hard to compare objectively because they’re different styles of pizza. Scholls is more of a straight-forward New York/New Haven pie, whereas Ken’s is kind of an American Gourmet/Neapolitan pie. I tend to prefer the former style for the same reason you don’t like it: more cheese. But that’s just me. My wife likes Nostrana best.
Despite the always rude service at Ken’s, I have to agree with Futuretense. Unless you grew up with grease pies, there’s just no reason to crave them. Plus the other menu items at Ken’s are good too.
Otherwise, a really fantastic summary of Portland right now, minus of course the fine dining stuff, but that’s well covered by others.
Wildwood, huh?
Nice list. And if you’re into street food, don’t forget the Eat Mobile competition on Saturday night. I heard Anthony Bourdain is one of the guest judges. I haven’t tried all of the carts competing, so I won’t vouch for them, but it’ll be a great way to taste food from many different carts at one time for cheap: http://blogs.wweek.com/eatmobile/about/ or http://www.foodcartsportland.com/2010/04/16/eat-mobile-contest/
Yes, it’s an embarrassment of riches, to be sure. I do have to say, though, I kinda miss the days of Nature’s, Coffee People and Macheezmo Mouse…
Nice list with some good off-the-beaten-track recs. But significant omissions: Toast on SE 52nd & Steele, great breakfasts and lunches in neighborhood café; dinner Thurs-Sat; a totally hidden gem. More breakfast and lunch at the Little Red Bike Cafe at 4823 N Lombard, passionate young people making foods they love in an under-served neighborhood. Great dim sum at Ocean City at 3016 SE 82nd. Bar Avignon on SE 22 & Division for drinks and great bar food. Taste Unique next door for truly amazing Italian. Nuestra Cocina across the street from them for margaritas and traditional-with-NW-ingredients Mexican (read: no yellow cheese).
@Tricia
A lot of the IACP attendees were pretty excited about all the food carts today. I heard they loved Ziba’s, Nong’s, and The People’s Pig especially.
@KAB
All good suggestions. I just tried to focus more on places around downtown.
Gotta side with Nick on the pizza, but again, think it’s totally a matter of style preference. I also love the previously unmentioned Dove Vivi and Tastebud, but it’s tough to compare such different styles directly. However, if I had to pick my absolute single favorite pie in town, it would probably be AP’s bacon bianca. Of the places mentioned, Nostrana is the only one I’ve found somewhat disappointing at times. Tough to go wrong at any of them.
Thank you so much for linking to my blog for City Market! I really like your whole list! You picked out some great Portland restaurants–many of my picks as well! I got to attend the IACP yesterday, and it was really fun to see everyone so jazzed to be in my home town and eating our food!
Great post — basically everywhere I love to eat and want to go in Portland!
My favorite faboo breakfast spot isn’t on the list- Cameo Cafe on 82nd and Sandy. Huge omelets with all sorts of interesting things in them (kim chee, anyone?) awesome waffles, and the biggest pancakes I’ve ever seen. There are vegetarian offerings, stirfrys, and burgers for those not in the mood for breakfast. They are also fairly flexible with menu offerings- I’m not only dieting, but I also observe Lent strictly, and I’m still able to find something yummy to eat there. And sit at the counter- watching the cook and waitstaff work around each other is like watching Cirque du Soleil!
Nostrana’s service is erratic enough that I would also not recomend it.